Top tips from Bobbi Brown senior pro artist, Warren Dowdall
“Cream based blush is so easy to use and completely fool proof. It’s a great option for all skin types and textures, but especially a drier or mature skin, as it doesn’t crease into areas of dehydration or fine lines and it really mimics that natural, healthy flush of colour on the cheek.
Choosing the wrong colour or shade is something I see regularly. Blush should be a subtle enhancement to your makeup. When choosing colour, pinch your cheek and look at colour that already exists in your skin. That will give you a great guide as to what colours to choose for a really polished blush look.
PLACEMENT: Placement is also something that can easily go wrong. Generally, it’s putting blusher too low on the face which draws the eyeline down and can look aging. Keep blush high on the apples of cheek - smile in the mirror and hug the apple with your blush brush and sweep up towards the temples. This will give a lifted, youthful look that is super flattering for all face shapes.
For a universally flattering technique that works for all face shapes, smile in the mirror and find the apple of your cheek- This is where you have the most volume. Concentrate the colour on the apple and blend back to towards the temple for a lifted, natural look.
BUILD & BLEND:
Non blended blush is another blush faux pas. Taking time to really melt your blush into the skin is key. There shouldn’t be any obvious demarcation lines. To help with this, start by applying a small amount and gradually build up to where you want to go with the colour.
ACE YOUR BASE: Setting your base and concealer with a sheer layer of powder is key to keep it in place and give a smooth surface before applying blush. I love Nude Finish Illuminating Powder as it’s formulated with Hyaluronic Acid which give the most beautiful glowing finish to the skin. Most modern cream blush formulas will apply beautifully over powder without creating texture.
Using a light reflective powder product to set the blush in place will still leave the skin looking beautiful dewy. I use a little dab of Brightening Brick in a similar colour to my cream blush choice to lock it in place without taking down the glow.
If there’s some high colour on the face naturally, use a full coverage concealer with a yellow undertone over your foundation on any hot spots to neutralise any redness first. Choose a cream blush with a cooler or neutral undertone so it doesn’t add any redness to the skin. Using your fingertips dot a small amount along the cheekbone itself and blend gently. This works really well as when your foundation wears a little throughout the day, any natural colour that might peep through will look like it’s part of your blusher application.” – senior pro artist, Warren Dowdall